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Hey I just asked you this on your other post, are you using a prop vavle.
By pass it with standerd unions.
I should have told you I run strait tube from the master too each axle. No other parts. The prop valve on the frame can be pushed over and not allow fluid.
Give me a holler if you want.
Broncomatt
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1st I change from drum/drum to manual disc front/drum rear on the EB axles
2nd changed to full widths 44/9" with ford disc front/chevy disc(1/2 ton truck)rear.
I bought a new booster/MC from ebay. Mounted it all up and no good pedal!
I put the old f250 MC I was using w/manual disc(on the EB axles) and had a great pedal-problem was the rear brakes were dragging really bad...rear smoking after 1 mile run!
So I did what others said, and bought a lincoln MC from a '79 mark V. I could never get a good pedal. I bled,bled,and bled...still no luck! I counldn't even get the front to gravity bleed! So today, I thought I would try yet another lincoln MC from the store-thinking the one I had was faulty. I installed it, bled the system again...no F*cking brakes still. I even eliminated the H-block mounted to the frame using unions. Now there is just lines from the MC to the front and rear main brake lines(nothing else). I bled everything again-still no brakes. I have adjusted the pedal rod 'til it feels right over and over. Still no brakes. I have to pump atleast 4-5 times for a somewhat firm pedal, let it up and hit them again- no pedal!!
WTF
I would like to fix this today, gotta do some local wheeling tomorrow!!!!
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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Chuck have you checked the calipers, maybe they are shot. My knowledge of disk brakes is limited. But that is all I an think of you have hit about everything else.
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what a huge difference ED!!! I haven't tried everything just yet, but now I have a pedal-A firm pedal! I'm sure this is the fix.
To clue all those who are wondering whats up...Ed suggested I check the length of the rod going into the MC. Well, I've already said the f250 worked good, but nothing else would.
I measured the depth of the hole on the f250 (1.375") and the lincoln was (1.415"). So I began inspecting the rod going into the MC from the booster bracket...it has a small adjusting bolt/lock nut. I screwed this out a few threads(about 4turns).
Wahlaa!!! Firm pedal! I will still test everything out good, and post the results...Thanks A bunch ED!!Chuck
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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Glad to hear you finally have some stopping power. Now... About that local wheeling. Wassup, I didn't get a phone call???!!!!!
Brian
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79 FS 351M, Trac loc HPD44, Detroit 9", 4.56's, 37 Toyo's, 17" Helo Maxx 6
