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I actually cut 1/2 in off the covers as they hit the Zerk fitting on mine so I cut all 4 to match.Did the measurement of 4.5 in work out for you? I hope so as that was the hard part figuring it out.
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73 104 in EB Buggy 5.0 SEFI ,C-4,38's Busy as Hell Building it right now.
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04-05-2009, 09:46 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-07-2009, 05:33 PM by broncomania.)
looks good jp
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744x4 Wrote:I actually cut 1/2 in off the covers as they hit the Zerk fitting on mine so I cut all 4 to match.Did the measurement of 4.5 in work out for you? I hope so as that was the hard part figuring it out.
4.5" what is that? :rubeyes:
also concerned with that zerk fitting getting tore off on the rocks ...
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so mine where cut to clear that zerk fitting too right ???
Man thank you and Robert I am so ready to test these arms out for real real ... tired of working on it and ready to PLAY c'mon ... :xyxthumbs:
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4.5 inches back from the center of the stock bolt hole is where the ft of the bracket worked out.The zerk can be changed out for a flush one if needed.The bad part about the brackets is there is no place to make the zerk safe and still be able to grease it.I would grease it and rotate the inner ball all the way around and then put a flush zerk or a plug in it before mounting it.
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73 104 in EB Buggy 5.0 SEFI ,C-4,38's Busy as Hell Building it right now.
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I agree with JP, let's go play in the mud!!! :xyxthumbs:
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That 4.5" is what Keith's ended up being, but the true test is to mount the arm and swing it up to the frame - where it lands it lands. I would be curious to see what your measurement is - your arms are identical to Keith's so 4.5 should be close.
I didn't like the zerk on the bottom either - but like Keith already said - considering the movement we were really limited as to where it could go and still easily accessible for greasing. As much as you'd like to say "I'll drop my arm and grease it once a year" if it were on the top side, I bet it'd get forgotten about - or at least I would forget about it.
Keep up the good work and keep teasing us with pictures! :rebel:
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04-05-2009, 11:17 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-05-2009, 11:20 PM by 744x4.)
You better upgrade your shocks also as the ft end will want to nosedive on hard breaking due to the lack of bind VS the stock joint so you may want to think about some shock hoops while you are there.Once you install the arm you will not be able to drop the back of the arm to grease it either unless it is on Jackstands with the Trac bar removed and the weight off the spring perches.I had to drop mine to install the replacement race/derlin bushing and ended up removing the whole arm yesterday.Still easier than the stock Radius arm removal though as once you pull the bolt it falls insted of having to pull the axle forward to release it.
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After you guys get all this done, does it effect the alignment of the front end? :xyxthumbs:
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trkbilder Wrote:I agree with JP, let's go play in the mud!!! :xyxthumbs:
Hey Clint I have seen alot of wheeling talk coming from you ... I luv it ... we got to gat someone up there for you and your grandson can go wheeling with ... I will make this happen ... hmmmm ... I have some Ideas ...
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