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Hi ya'll, it has been awhile seen i was last on, but nothing much has changed. One thing that is on the drawing table is a 302 swap. i was GIVEN a 302 for free. i am in the process of rebuilding it because after closer inspection i found a busted piston. my question is if there is any bII running a 302 here that may be able to give me some pointers as to what parts fit/interchange. i have done some research and have concluded that the block is from 1972 and was originally in a fairlane/Torino( was orig. told from 76-78 f100). i am looking to get the most low-end torque that i can without sacrificing speed (80mph tops).
like always ANY and ALL help is greatly accepted and appriated.
thanks
chris
p.s. looking for a BII rim (15x10)
Taking the mudguppy one rut at a time.
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man, I cant wait for this to get started...I been wanting to swap a 302 in my ole ford ranger(1990)...really wanted to set it up for scca track stuff.(never got there though)
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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i am hoping to do a thorough write up if i can get some help when the time comes. i have to replace one piston, so i am going to rebuild it and add the neccessary parts to achieve my goal.
Taking the mudguppy one rut at a time.
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I may have a few 302 parts laying around, headers,other stuff..let me now when ya get close what we can do to help.Chuck
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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If you have a big budget stroke it to 331-347 and run a good set of AFR heads.
If your looking for bang for the buck I would bore it .030" and use a set of Speed Pro flat tops. Stock cast heads will make good power, but if you get into swapping larger valves and mild porting, it would be just as easy to go with a set of after market heads. Cam choice is also pretty important. Your block is designed for flat tappet hydraulic cams. If you keep the duration around 220* or less and the lift less than .550" it should be very streetable and easy on the valve train. Comp Cams makes several different grinds, FRPP and Summit brands are several that I've used and been pleased with.
Get an idea of what you want and I can run the #'s through my Desktop Dyno to give you an idea of your final product.
'72 TBA...
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I've heard that the frame will be your weak link with the 302. I would probly do a little boxing & fish plating if I were doing this.
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302 in a b2 = awesome.
East Coast Surplus & Tactical
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Oh and another thing I forgot to mention is that hav'n a body lift will also have an effect on the frame in this area. The body kinda acts like a stiffener to keep the frame rails from spreading on the top side, therefore IMO with a body lift the link would be longer between the frame and brace(body) giving it more chance to spread. I don't think it would ever cause any problems with the 2.9 but with 5.0 its possible.
The upside of hav'n a bodylift is then you would have room to fab a brace from rail to rail to stop the problem before it starts. As stated above this is just my opinion I don't have any hard facts to prove or disprove it other than the one I mentioned in the earlier post. BTW I'm not claiming to be be a BII GURU by any means if the truth be known I'm far from it.
