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rear disc brakes***HELP***
#1
ok, I bought the cj7 front rotors for use on the rear full width 9". But, the axle flange does not fit inside the rotor. Do I keep looking for one that fits? Do I cut the axle flange down? Or cut the inside of the rotor out?

I haven't looked to see how much material is there on the rotor, but I'm thinking that would be better. I'll probably break the axle shaft before a rotor breaks. Please help with some thoughts.Chuck
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#2
Chuck I did the disk convert that was in BD several issues back. The way mine works is the axle sits on the out side( wheel side ) of the rotor and you use long shank lug studs to go through both the axle and rotor. I'll see if I can find the correct BD issue. HTH


Found it Issue #10, starts on page 66.

later.
66 Rockrawler, 66 RestoMod
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#3
That's what I did on the rear 60 too.
'74 Grocery Getter, '73 Project Buggy, '77 Parts Rig

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#4
I did not think of that. I think Matt wrote that up, but I thought is slide over the studs.

Ya'll are using the studs and wheel to lock the rotor in place? Are the slines on the wheel studs long enough to go through the rotor and secure to the axle flange? Thanks guys,Chuck
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#5
I guess if I broke an axle shaft, I would have to reuse the studs on the new shaft...right?
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#6
Yes, I wrote the artical on cheap rear disks. You can mount the rotor behind or over the axle flange. If you put it over the flange you must cut the flange down to fit inside the rotor. There is not enough mattrial inside the rotor to cut it down enough. It is easyer to cut some off each.
I have mine with the rotors behind the axle flange. This is not always possible with stock shafts(they have uneven cast on the back side some times).
Since the caliper mount is welded on you can choose where you put the rotor. The only down fall of having it behind is if the rotor needs replacing you have to pull the shaft off.
You should always replace the lug studs when replacing a shaft.
With the rotor on the flange you need longer lug studs.
I can always post more pics of my setup if people would like.
Broncomatt
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#7
broncomatt Wrote:Yes, I wrote the artical on cheap rear disks. You can mount the rotor behind or over the axle flange. If you put it over the flange you must cut the flange down to fit inside the rotor. There is not enough mattrial inside the rotor to cut it down enough. It is easyer to cut some off each.
I have mine with the rotors behind the axle flange. This is not always possible with stock shafts(they have uneven cast on the back side some times).
Since the caliper mount is welded on you can choose where you put the rotor. The only down fall of having it behind is if the rotor needs replacing you have to pull the shaft off.
You should always replace the lug studs when replacing a shaft.
With the rotor on the flange you need longer lug studs.
I can always post more pics of my setup if people would like.
Broncomatt

that would be helpful Matt. Will the longer studs have longer splines to engage the axle flange from behind?Thanks again,Chuck
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#8
I was also currious if a dodge rotor w/5 lug would fit over the flange without issues???
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#9
I will set up a tech artical in our section later tonight.
The lug studs with longer splines can be hard to find. I brought the stock
one in and asked them to find me a longer one.
If you cant find a spline section thats longer its ok. Just be sure the splines are holding on the rotor, I have had to weld mine in on some. They spun.
Never tried any other rotors, since the jeep ones had the right lug pattern and a good off set I never looked any farther. I think any rotor could be made to work, but it may take more fabrication time(drilling lug holes, an off set that works, overall diamiter.
Broncomatt
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#10
will do, I'll statr looking today to see what I can find,Chuck
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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