rear disc brakes***HELP***

[66gasgrill]

Here ya go chuck pn# 156462 ( Autozone) or pn# 610-210 (Dorman parts, Car Quest ) Long shank lug studs

[blazinchuck]

Here ya go chuck pn# 156462 ( Autozone) or pn# 610-210 (Dorman parts, Car Quest ) Long shank lug studs

super big THANKS TRAVIS!!!!Will check it out tomorrow,Chuck

[blazinchuck]

can anyone tell me which brake hose to buy for this rear brake set up? I was hoping to buy something today on the way home. Looking for a hose that's about 8-10" long. It need to connect to the caddy calipers. Hope you guys can help,Chuck

[broncomatt]

I did post my write up, but I only mentended using braided hose(banjo on one end, and standered brake line on the othere end)
If you want realy cheap, you can buy s10 front brake hose. Late 80's threw mid 90's. You may need a metric end for your brake line, you can buy an adapter or a new end to cut and flair your line. The banjo bolt is what determans the brake hose you buy. Alot of parts stores are carring braided hose with genaric banjo ends. Well worth the money.
Broncomatt

[blazinchuck]

I found out some new stuff tonight! 1-the rotor wont fit past the axle retainer plate. 2-I hate reading-this explains my new discovery.

I was able to finally slip the rotor past it after bending all the ears of the retainer plate. Rotor is in place and began installing new studs. Almost stripped the f-n threads off! After talking w/Matt-I then had to remove the center section of the original backing plates to use as a spacer-so I cut that out w/plasma cutter(thank God for those!) Now that the rotor is in place...you cant hardly get to the 4 retainer bolts! Soooooo,I decided to use the plasma again and cut the access hole through the axle flange and through the rotor, then ground it smooth w/die grinder.

I rotor down, now I called it a night. I still have the driver side to do, and mount both caliper brackets and run brake lines!!!!

[blazinchuck]

ok, just to bring this back to the top. I completed the 4 wheel disc in time for URE. I also used a brand new power brakes setup I bought from ebay. However the MC would not work right-too many pumps almost no brakes. So I swapped in the MC I was using before with the front manual disc/rear drum(it was a old f-250 MC). The problem I ran into at URE, the rear brakes were dragging and causing them to smoke everytime I stopped.

Now, I took Matt's advice and went with a new MC for a Lincoln 4 disc set up. I bench bled, installed,bled the brake lines...and still no brakes. I took it for a shake down run at a friends place near Winnsboro,SC and basically had NO brakes the whole day.

Any I deas? I will be re-bleeding the lines, even gravity bleeding them to just to help. Let me know,Chuck

oh yeah, the pedal even stay to the floor many a times that same day. If I pump the pedal a few times, it gets a little better, then goes away again???

[bucketobolts]

It does sound like you have air in the system. If you get all the air out and you still have to pump to get a good pedal you may have to install a residual pressure valve. They are used to keep the caliper close to the rotor with out it dragging. You use 2psi on disc and 10psi on drum set ups. Residual brake valve

On my rig I run a booster off of a Chevy Astro van. So I went with a '77 model Corvette master cylinder. A Ford M/C has a wider bolt mounting pattern. Otherwise I would have reused the F250 "camper special" that I used on my manual 4 wheel disc set up.

[broncomatt]

Sorry for the late reply, just got back in town.
You have air in the system. Start at the back and work front, put a peice of clear hose over the bleeder. Open the bleader and pump the pedal a few times. With the hose over the bleeder you dont have to close it right away, wait untill the bubbles stop. If they dont stop there is still air in the lines.
The lincon master doesnt need a residual press valve, its in the master.
Mine grabs rear first, I like it that way. If you dont you can add an adjustable press regulator for front to rear bias.
Give me a call and we can chat, Happy Holidays.
Broncomatt

[blazinchuck]

I'm ready to give up! :evil: I have bled and bled and bled...'til I cant do it.


here's what I think...
I bought the new booster w/MC...still never got a good pedal
I used the old MC(f250) that I was using with the manual disc/drum set ip on the EB axles...and I got instant pedal-but, at URE the rear started locking up and dragging really bad. So I went and bought a new reman '78 lincoln 4disc MC...no pedal. You have to pump it up 4-5 times, then it goes away after that. Sometimes the pedal goes to the floor and doesn't come back up.

I can get the rear to gravity bleed great, but the front wont at all! I also changed out the old crappy front axle brake lines with all new hoses and hard lines. I re-bled the MC and then bled the calipers over and over!!!! 2 bottles and still no pedal!!! I think this MC is crap! I would try to swap it out for another, but I just called autozone and no one has another instock. I would have to wait 'til Jan 4th :x . A friend gave me a corvette MC, but the lines are on the other side and its really old and nasty-I wont be using that one. Is there another MC like the lincoln with the posts on the motor side set up for 4 wheel disc? Help me out here guys!! Thanks,Chuck

[bucketobolts]

A friend gave me a corvette MC

The Corvette M/C will have a different mounting bolt pattern. It won't fit to a Ford booster.

You may try a late model Mustang or even a '90's T-bird. Though they may be aluminum with a plastic reservoir. Might make them pricey.