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possibly a ujoint in driveshaft. remove the rear shaft put it in 4wd and see if vibration goes away
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
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First stop is driveshaft/ u-joint as firefighter said. See how much movement is in the joint. If it is solid, I do as above to eliminate a shaft imbalance. Beyond that, I would move on to tire balance.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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yep, what they said^^^
i had a rear joint(new-1 day old) fall the next day. i noticed a new vibration when it would hit 45mph, stopped to check and found that one of the caps had the needles busted and turned to dust or missing needles.
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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Could a bad rear wheel bearing cause a vibration? Check your lugs!
Nate
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Thanks for the advice. The rear driveshaft and joints are solid. Per Firefighter, I'll remove the rear driveshaft to eliminate the driveline as the root cause. Gotta get this one solved before the drive to Uwharrie! :toothy12:
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It is possible for a wheel bearing to cause it, but not likely. If the wheel bearing was to that point, it would be more than just a vibe.
So what is the news? :popc1::popc1::popc1:
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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Body lift won't affect driveline angle. Just suspension lift. I have a stock length rear shaft if u want me to bring to ure I can't use it anymore
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
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I have a 3 1/2" suspension lift and now a 2" body lift. Still ok for the stock shaft?
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