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Another Bronco Floor Replacement
#11
Earthguy Wrote:Side question - I noticed that you have the Hurst floor shift conversion. I got the tunnel cover hump for that conversion as a Christmas gift this year. My plan was to weld it in as I'm redoing my floors so that it looks seamless when I line the tub. My concern there is that doing so will limit my access to the shifter later. Is that a problem? I'm also looking for a small body lift to correct some clearance issues before they become issues. Does that affect the shifter angle enough to change where it comes through the hump?

Wild Horses sells a body mount and 1" body lift as a single piece. Well worth the money.
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
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#12
I don't know if I'd weld it in. You may want access to make an adjustment, replace a bushing, etc.... Mine had the Hurst shifter when I bought it. I put a 2" body lift on it when I got it because I thought I was going to end up putting a 351W in it. (Ended up with a 347) Anyway, I didn't run into any problems with either of the shifters when I did the body lift. I did have to change my steering shaft and install the clutch rod adapter. Some people have issues with the gas tank filler necks but mine was fine.

JD
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#13
OMG what have I gotten myself into. The deeper I go the worse it gets. I took the rockers off the driver side. I know I didn't do it right. Seriously, How much do you think it would cost me to just take the whole damn body off and have it blasted and panels replaced.

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#14
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#15
Yep, I was thinking you'd get this far into it. Bad news is that you still have plenty left to do. Good news is that it will be done right when you're finished! I would replace the floors and inner rockers now since you've got it this far apart. Let us know if you need any measurements to compare to, as you begin to button it back up. Keep it up!
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#16
I'm trying to decide what sequence to do this in. First I already made a patch panel for the inner fender so I'm going to cut out the rust spot you see and weld that in. Then I wanted to go ahead and put the kick panel back in but it goes behind the inner rocker. I finally borrowed a welder so I'm going to weld in some braces between the tab where the windshield frame meets the front door post and the rear striker post. I am intentionally leaving the right side undisturbed in case I need it as reference. Bart/Chuck, do you guys have any input here?
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#17
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#18
Keep up the good work. Take your time is the key. Also need to check and measure, check and measure, check and measure before you start putting it back together. Been there done that. Been in your shoes at one time. Take your time.
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#19
I would replace the inner rocker and driver floorpan now. Then put the kick panel and door post in place. Then the outer rocker. Self tapping 'tech screws' are what I recommend to mock everything up with. You can go ahead and patch the inner apron now. That is an easy one compared to the rest...

I wouldn't bother bracing anything. It has moved around already. Biggest thing is taking your time fitting it all together correctly. If you are running doors, gut them and hang them to check things before welding it all up. Using a hardtop as well would also help. Use an ample amount of screws to position things. After rechecking everything about 39 times, then you can begin to plug weld it all together. I like to cut a 1/4" hole in the upper piece of metal that I want to weld to the lower piece. I recommend a lot of heat to make sure the weld is strong.
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#20
Oh, it looks like you already welded that apron piece in. I would not have welded it to the firewall yet, unless you are sure it is in the right spot. It somewhat affects the front fender mounting. Hope all my jumbled writing makes some sense.

You will get tired of test fitting all the body panels multiple times. I don't know a better way than trial and error. You just don't want an error after everything is welded up. That is why I like to screw things together first. Way easier to realign and adjust stuff around.
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