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New Wiring for a 351
#1
so I'm at a good stopping point on my build, but I've have at least one short that I can't seem to trace and have several gauges that don't work. Also, my battery drains if I leave the cable on so I'm restricted to removing it while not driving. The previous owner did his own "awesome" wiring that resulted in multiple bird nests all over the truck and things not working, the battery drain, etc. I'm looking at the painless wiring harnesses but I'm just curious if there is a specific one that I need since my truck has a 351w and isn't a "stock '70 bronco". Never done wiring before, any tips?
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#2
It'll work fine. All wires on the new harness will be labeled as to what they do. It isn't an easy job but it is pretty simple, even with just basic wiring knowledge.
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#3
What have you done to find the short / drain? Let me know if you need guidance as I don't know you well enough to know your skill level.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#4
ive installed 4-5 centech harnesses, they have been pretty easy. never installed a painless or other, but i am about to install a EZ12 harness(requires more work). i would hook the battery back up and wire a test light between the neg post and the neg batt cable...if there is a draw the test light will light up(bright for a large draw-dim for a small draw) then remove each fuse, one at a time. that will help narrow down the search. just make sure the pos cable is connected to the battery and everything is turned off when testing. i had a similar draw, found out my CB was causing the drain(its a weather alert feature CB, but was still draining battery-its now on a switch
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#5
You found jack. I found that drain from your CB jerkey!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#6
Same difference azzhat

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#7
Another quick thought that jerkey and azzhat overlooked is that if you still have an external regulated alternator, try unplugging it to see if you loose your drain. I have had the old mechanical type and the newer electronic ones get me.
:xyxthumbs: ROCKNROLL!!
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#8
Painless or Centech are both good and not hard to put in. If ordering one you may want to specify that is has the v8. If yours was a 6cyl some wires are in
the wrong place. I would start with a new harness, if the draw still happens after that. Put a test light between the neg terminal like chuck said. Then pull one
fuse at a time till it goes out. Thats the circuit you need to trace out for the draw.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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#9
If you want to go all the way I have a throttle body fuel injection system for a 351w for sale, $600bo
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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#10
sorry for the absence guys, been without internet for a bit. I wound up going with the centech and was going to start on it, but got bogged down with a few things. so chuck, if you have any tips or references, that would be awesome, as my skill level is "never touched electrical before".
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