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Without the body lift there is major modification (removal) to the heater box (due to valve cover clearance issues), as well as some slight modification of the trans hump on the firewall (bell clearance). With the lift (2" min) there is significant reduction of the needed modification.
Taking the mudguppy one rut at a time.
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upergrin:Gollleee! It souinds like you've done that before!!!:upup:
Psalms 27:1
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if any of the BII's are interested in this swap, then JamesDuff.com has a good outline of what is involved. there is also a write up i believe at TheRangerStation.com (4.0l im sure of). Plus James Duff offers alot of this stuff required like new bolt in motor mounts, etc.
Taking the mudguppy one rut at a time.
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on the gas issue. if you use a good flowing double pumper or similar carb like a elderbrook thunder series (off road) with a mild cam (im going with the comp cams complete cam kit ($378, comes with timing chain, lifters, springs, guilds, seal, etc.) you can still achieve a respectable mpg. i am averaging only 13-15mpg with my 2.9 (granite i have 33's and stock 3.73 gearing).
Taking the mudguppy one rut at a time.
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:hysterical: Oh my, no a/c!! No way, if I do it, I'm jacking mine up!!
cratchhe:
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I've not done this swap on my Bronco II (yet-I really want to!) but I've done a lot of research into it.
First off, don't go buying "V8 conversion mounts" all you need are Fox Body Mustang convertible engine mounts. You can pick up brand new poly mounts for one for about half the price of the "conversion mounts" that James duff and other companies sell, and they do the exact same thing. The poly ones are better as well, i think the James Duff ones are just normal rubber ones, but I could be wrong. You have to drill one hole in the crossmember for the mounts to fit and thats about it.
The second thing is, everyone strongly recommends a bodylift. It gives you rocker cover clearance on the heater box, as well as transmission tunnel clearance. According to most people, bracing the frame is not really nessisary until you go above 250ish hp. It shouldn't be that difficult to do though, so it might be worth tackling while the engine is out! Some people recommend you bend the lip over on the seam at the edge of the transmission tunnel for extra clearance.
Third, upgrade from the 7.5 rearend to an 8.8, the Dana 28 to a Dana 35 up front if you don't have one in your truck from standard. Late 89's and 1990 models came with the Dana 35, everyone else is stuck with the 28. There are some people that claim the 7.5 is okay for V8 power, however I would say that unless your running 200hp or less and are not planning to wheel the truck hard, you should upgrade. Plus you can get an explorer 8.8 with disc brakes! :xyxthumbs:
Header clearance, as well as clearance for a radiator big enough for the 5.0 is tough to come by. Most headers like to head straight for the frame rails. James duff sells headers that work, and don't hit the frame. If it were me, I'd invest in the $250 and just buy them and be done with it, but thats just me. Apparently Headman shorty headers for a falcon will fit and be useable as well. I think starter motor clearance can be an issue, they recommend a mini-starter. Oh, and you'll need an oil filter relocation kit for a 5.0. Invest in a decent one; from what I hear, the cheap ones tend to leak!
I THINK?? but dont quite me, that some if not all of the accessories from the 2.9 will fit on the V8 if you use the V8 brackets.
If you're keeping FI there is a bit of wire splicing to do but its not too bad. There's still some splicing to do if you go with a carb, so keep that in mind that it won't nessisarily be way easier than a FI swap like some people think.
Anyway, if I think of more stuff I'll shout. Thats just stuff I've read, not stuff from personal experience so dont hate if I'm wrong! :crying: :hysterical:
Google Bronco II V8 Swap or Ranger V8 Swap and read! It helps you to know what ta expect!