Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Another Bronco Floor Replacement
#21
Thanks for the advice!
Reply
#22
Trying to decide how far up to go with the floor pan. The pan I got from Jeff's would actually go further than the upper seam. Thinking about trimming it to where I wouldn't have to go past the holes for the clutch rod and E brake hole.

[Image: photo+1%25287%2529.JPG]

[Image: photo+2%25285%2529.JPG]

[Image: photo%25282%2529.JPG]
Reply
#23
[Image: 1779683_755063511172574_1436902257_n.jpg]

[Image: 1911865_755063507839241_1495097978_n.jpg]

[Image: 1911865_755063517839240_1531553178_n.jpg]

[Image: 1920237_755063514505907_1555039186_n.jpg]
Reply
#24
Making progress, even if it means tearing it further apart...

My 2 cents on the floor pan:

I like to cut the original floor pans further up than where you are thinking. I like to leave about 3/4" of material below the horizontal bend adjoining the engine firewall. Basically I cut it horizontally about where the 'ribs' end on the angled portion of the floor pan, right above the hole for the clutch pedal. This leaves enough of a seam there to spot weld the floor pan in to orginal metal. No, there wasn't a seam there from the factory but if you do it well it looks very good. And yes, you will need to trim the new floor pan some to fit into place in about every area. For the area we are discussing here, I cut the floor pan to end along that bend where it meets the upper firewall. I think having a seam in the middle of a panel looks sloppy. Just my opinion.


I use a hole saw to cut a new hole for the clutch pedal rod. I can't remember the hole saw size. I use the same hole saw to cut a hole for the parking brake cable as well. Remove the old parking brake cable doohickey from the old floor pan. It is spot welded on each corner. Spot weld it to the new floor pan, but do it once everything is in place. You want to make sure the cable is aligned nicely with the parking brake pedal assembly. I like to cut the old floor pan out cleanly and overlay it on the new floor pan to mark the hole locations. I've never cut one wrong doing it that way.

One other thing I wish they did was bend the flap of the floor pan where it meets the kick panel down instead of up. From the factory, that flap was bent down. You can do it however you want to. I always use my mini-brake to bend it back down, like the original was.

Let me know if any of this doesn't make sense.

Oh, I started a thread on this, but my computer died somewhere during the process. There is a pic in this on how much I cut out. On my next floor pan job, I'll be sure to take plenty of pics and add info.

http://www.cb4x4.com/forums/showthread.p...eplacement
Reply
#25
Thanks for the advice and yes it makes perfect sense. I am going to follow your suggestion and much thanks for the help. The pictures on your thread aren't working but I know what you mean. I guess you saw the little patch panel I made for the vertical area behind the floor pan. I am going to remake is because I didn't get the angle right where it meets the transmission tunnel. Wasn't easy to make those flanges hammering it over the edge of my work table! I'll post the results when I get back on it.

Thanks,

JD
Reply
#26
Almost time to start putting stuff back in. I have the patch panel I made (second one) screwed in there temporarily to check the fit. I don't think it turned out too bad to have been formed by beating the flanges out over the edge of my work bench. I have to take it back out to cut the hole for the fuel tank valve. You can also see the little triangle piece I cut out by the shifter. Going to make a patch for there.


[Image: WP_20140301_012.jpg]
[Image: WP_20140301_018.jpg]
[Image: WP_20140301_024.jpg]
[Image: WP_20140301_025.jpg]
Reply
#27
Looks good. I don't envy you one bit right now!
Reply
#28
[Image: WP_20140320_004.jpg]

Floor pan primed, pre-drilled and ready to go in.
Reply
#29
[Image: WP_20140320_005.jpg]
[Image: WP_20140320_006.jpg]


Screwed down ready to be welded.
Reply
#30
[Image: WP_20140320_007.jpg]

Pre-fitting inner rocker.
Reply


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  1996 Ford Bronco- Body Bushing Install jrshepherd 2 2,380 09-19-2018, 02:50 PM
Last Post: blazinchuck
  Stainless/ Coated Headers needed- 1995 Bronco 351 Windsor .20 over trick flow heads jrshepherd 1 3,214 05-22-2018, 09:38 PM
Last Post: broncosbybart
  1977 Ford Bronco rear ended 9" rebuild Crawdad 10 5,096 01-19-2017, 12:53 PM
Last Post: snipes243
  BC Bronco Soft Top knoxville714 3 3,107 07-12-2016, 08:04 PM
Last Post: blazinchuck
  1996 Bronco New BSD 4" long arm lift on IFS suspension- Setting Wheelbase jrshepherd 11 3,756 01-31-2016, 03:55 PM
Last Post: broncosbybart
  Mystery Bronco, need your expertise to solve 1st Bronco 2 2,861 08-04-2013, 10:48 PM
Last Post: 1st Bronco
  OK. I love my Bronco again Timstrk 3 2,497 05-19-2013, 08:43 PM
Last Post: chuzie
  Bronco Help Around Greenwood Jbass 29 12,704 01-20-2013, 03:16 PM
Last Post: broncosbybart
  '94 351 Rear Main replacement JayT 5 1,635 12-22-2012, 05:34 PM
Last Post: JayT
  Bronco techs in/near Raleigh? Mbowles 10 2,571 11-30-2012, 07:07 PM
Last Post: Mbowles

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 7 Guest(s)