10-23-2011, 07:36 PM
Why do the simple projects turn into complicated tasks and what you think will be a PITA isn't bad at all.
The PO of my crawler project welded a bung into a c4 pan for the dipstick - not sure why but the booger welds on the bung to the thin pan match all of his other booger welds at least. I assume since it leaked he proceeded to JB Weld around it like it is caulk and it has leaked since I've owned it.
I bought a B&M deep pan to fix the leak and upgrade at the same time. My filler tube was already touching the exhaust (short headers) trying to cram between the bell housing and exhaust. The new pan required an adapter to convert to the right thread which pushes the filler tube out another 3/4" and right into the exhaust.
I considered making my own flexible tube and got to thinking how I would make sure the stock dipstick would still show the correct reading when checked. The stock set-up dip stick does not come out of the tube, but actually measures the trans fluid level in the tube. Therefore the 90 deg bend when it exits the pan is essential in order to keep the fluid level correct on the stick. That's where my problem is - right at top of the 90* bend. I considered running straight out of the pan, under the exhaust, and come up on the outside of the exhaust rather than b/w the exhaust and bell housing, but then the dip stick levels would not read correctly. The same goes for if I bought a lokar flexible line - how do they know you are going to route it so that the levels are correct?
I'm hoping I can shorten the leg of the 90 going into the pan and re-flare it to make-up the difference, but still confused as to how a flexible line would give the correct measurement??
The PO of my crawler project welded a bung into a c4 pan for the dipstick - not sure why but the booger welds on the bung to the thin pan match all of his other booger welds at least. I assume since it leaked he proceeded to JB Weld around it like it is caulk and it has leaked since I've owned it.
I bought a B&M deep pan to fix the leak and upgrade at the same time. My filler tube was already touching the exhaust (short headers) trying to cram between the bell housing and exhaust. The new pan required an adapter to convert to the right thread which pushes the filler tube out another 3/4" and right into the exhaust.
I considered making my own flexible tube and got to thinking how I would make sure the stock dipstick would still show the correct reading when checked. The stock set-up dip stick does not come out of the tube, but actually measures the trans fluid level in the tube. Therefore the 90 deg bend when it exits the pan is essential in order to keep the fluid level correct on the stick. That's where my problem is - right at top of the 90* bend. I considered running straight out of the pan, under the exhaust, and come up on the outside of the exhaust rather than b/w the exhaust and bell housing, but then the dip stick levels would not read correctly. The same goes for if I bought a lokar flexible line - how do they know you are going to route it so that the levels are correct?
I'm hoping I can shorten the leg of the 90 going into the pan and re-flare it to make-up the difference, but still confused as to how a flexible line would give the correct measurement??
'74 Grocery Getter, '73 Project Buggy, '77 Parts Rig